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History of Montclair
For thousands of years before the beginning of European settlement,
the area we know today Montclair was part of the homeland of the
Lenape Indians, who hunted and trapped here and passed over our
mountain on their way to gather shellfish at the shore. Such place
names as Watchung (on the hill) and Yantacaw (place of dancing)
bear witness to their heritage.
The story of Montclair as
a settled community begins with the founding of Newark by English
people from Connecticut in 1666. The lands of the Newark settlement
extended westward to First Mountain, and having acquired acreage
at "the foot of the mountain," Azariah Crane, his wife
Mary Treat Crane, and their son Nathaniel, built a home in 1694
near the present intersection of Orange Road and Myrtle Avenue.
Other pioneers arrived soon after, and the frontier settlement of
Cranetown came into being in what is now the southern part of Montclair.
In 1679 Dutch settlers acquired
land from the Lenape west of the Passaic River and north of Newark,
an arrangement later confirmed by the British government. Among
these were the Speers who built a home that stands today on Upper
Mountain Avenue just north of the Montclair border. Other Dutch
settlers established farms in what is now the northern half of Montclair.
This community became known as Speertown and it remained Dutch speaking
throughout the colonial period. In 1768 the Speertown Road (Valley
Road) was laid out, thus providing a link between the two settlements.
During the Revolutionary War,
First Mountain provided observation points for following the movements
of the British to the east. A strong tradition holds that both George
Washington and the Marquis de Lafayette were in Cranetown briefly
in October of 1780. The boulder at the comer of Claremont Avenue
and Valley Road marking the site of "Washington's Headquarters"
is one of Montclair's better known landmarks.
Speertown would remain a rural
hamlet well into the 19th century. However, beginning about 1800,
several developments led to the transformation of Cranetown into
a small commercial center. One development was the opening of a
general store by Israel Crane, who received trade from a wide area.
In 1806 Crane led a group of businessmen in obtaining a charter
from the state for building the Newark Pompton Turnpike. Constructed
over the next several years, the turnpike came through Montclair
as Bloomfield Avenue and vastly increased the flow of commerce.
Israel Crane broke new ground as well in opening a woolen mill on
Toney's Brook. Other small industries followed. Also important for
the economic development of the area was the completion of the Morris
Canal in 1831. Meanwhile, in 1812, the Bloomfield ward of Newark
became a separate township, which included the future Montclair.
The village of Cranetown now became known as West Bloomfield and
a post office was established under that name.
The most decisive event for
the emergence of Montclair was the coming of the railroads. In 1856
The Newark and Bloomfield Railroad Company inaugurated regular service
to West Bloomfield. By changing trains at Newark and taking a ferry
from Hoboken, people could travel from the future Lackawanna Plaza
to New York in an hour and twenty minutes. Attracted to the country
setting with its panoramic views, people in the cities began riding
the train to West Bloomfield, some for Sunday excursions, others
for vacations, and still others seeking to make their homes here.
By 1860 West Bloomfield was becoming a commuter town with its own
marked identity, and influential residents persuaded the post office
to adopt the name, Montclair.
Dissatisfaction with existing
service led to a move to bring a second railroad to town. When Bloomfield
authorities declined to authorize a bond issue to underwrite another
railroad, Montclair residents were successful in securing from the
state legislature a charter for a separate township. Thus in 1868
the Township of Montclair was created. The plan for another railroad
went forward and by 1873 the Greenwood Lake Line was completed,
with five stations in Montclair. In time as many as six thousand
people would commute daily from Montclair via the two railroad lines.
Trains ran on Sunday too.
The population of the community grew rapidly as New York businessmen
and their families began building homes along the mountainside.
The new residents sought to create in Montclair a model "country
town" with convenient access to the city. Their vision was
shared by a notable artists colony that began forming in the 1870's.
A central figure was the landscape painter, George Inness. Able
and dedicated community leaders endowed the town with superior schools,
an excellent public library, a distinguished art museum and many
large and influential churches.
By the opening of the 20th century a richly diverse population characterized
the community. A new influx of New Englanders was joined by African
Americans from the South and by Irish, Germans, Italians, Scandinavians
and others newly arrived from Europe. Great mansions went up. But
so did many modest homes. Between 1880 and 1930, Montclair's population
leaped from 5,147 to 42,017. Talented people continued to be attracted
to the community and by the 1930's more than 130 Montclair residents
were listed in each issue of who's who in America.
The period following World War Il was marked by tremendous expansion
of the metropolitan area. New suburbs popped up in the hinterland,
along with shopping malls and corporate offices. No longer a country
town, Montclair faced the challenge of preserving its character
as a gracious residential community while at the same time sustaining
its aging commercial centers. Social changes of the 1960's and 70's
brought further challenges. In 1977 the Board of Education established
a system of magnet schools with the aim both of achieving racial
balance and of enriching the curriculum. After many years under
the commission form of government, the community adopted the manager-council
plan, and revenue sharing considerations led to the Montclair returning
to the status of Township.
Today Montclair is a community of about 38,000 inhabitants. Never
content to be merely a "bedroom community," Montclair
is nevertheless a family centered town. Its heritage in education
enlarges with the development of Montclair State University. Once
again our hillside has become a haven for artists and writers. This
is a seasoned community whose many old houses enhance its charm.
Yet at the dawn of a new century, Montclair remains alive to the
spirit of the times.
--Royal F. Shepard, Jr., Township
Historian, 1997
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